Imboni yokudaya inenkinga
Kunezinkinga eziningi ngezinqubo zamanje zokudaya izindwangu nezindlela zokwelapha, futhi cishe zonke zihlobene nokusetshenziswa kwamanzi ngokweqile kanye nokungcola.Ukudaya ukotini kudla amanzi kakhulu, njengoba kulinganiselwa ukuthi ukudaya nokuqeda kungasebenzisa amalitha angu-125 amanzi ngekhilogremu yemicu kakotini.Akukhona nje kuphela ukuthi ukudaya kudinga amanzi amaningi, kuphinde kuthembele emandleni amakhulu ukushisisa amanzi kanye nesitimu esidingekayo ukuze kuqedwe okufunayo.
Cishe amathani angu-200,000 odayi (abiza ibhiliyoni elingu-1 USD) alahlekelwa ukungcola ngenxa yezinqubo ezingasebenzi kahle zokudaya nokuqeda (Chequer et al., 2013).Lokhu kusho ukuthi izinqubo zamanje zokudaya azigcini nje ngokumosha izinsiza nemali, kodwa futhi zikhipha amakhemikhali anobuthi emithonjeni yamanzi ahlanzekile.Amaphesenti angama-60 kuye kwangama-80 wabo bonke odayi bangodayi be-AZO, abaningi babo abaziwa ngokuthi bangawomdlavuza.I-Chlorobenzenes ivamise ukusetshenziselwa ukudaya i-polyester, futhi inobuthi lapho uhogelwa noma uthintana ngqo nesikhumba.Amakhemikhali ane-perfluorinated, i-formaldehydes kanye nopharafini we-chlorinated asetshenziselwa izinqubo zokuqedela ukudala imiphumela yokuvimbela amanzi noma ukuvinjelwa komlilo, noma ukudala izindwangu zokunakekela kalula.
Njengoba imboni imile namuhla, abahlinzeki bamakhemikhali abadingeki ukuthi banikeze zonke izithako ezingaphakathi kodayi.Umbiko wezi-2016 we-KEMI wathola ukuthi cishe ama-30% amakhemikhali asetshenziswa ekukhiqizeni izindwangu nokudaya ayimfihlo.Lokhu kungabi sobala kusho ukuthi abahlinzeki bamakhemikhali kungenzeka basebenzise izinto ezinobuthi emikhiqizweni esuke ingcolise imithombo yamanzi ngesikhathi sokukhiqiza futhi ilimaze labo abagqoka izingubo eziphelile.
Siyazi ukuthi inani elikhulu lamakhemikhali angaba ubuthi lisetshenziselwa ukudaya izingubo zethu, kodwa kukhona ukuntula ulwazi nokungafihli lutho mayelana nezakhiwo zawo maqondana nempilo yabantu neyemvelo.Ulwazi olunganele ngamakhemikhali asetshenziswayo kungenxa yewebhu ehlukene futhi eyinkimbinkimbi yamaketanga okuhlinzeka nokusabalalisa.Amaphesenti angama-80 amaketanga okuhlinzeka ngendwangu akhona ngaphandle kwe-United States ne-EU, okwenza kube nzima ngohulumeni ukulawula izinhlobo zamakhemikhali asetshenziswa engutsheni ethengiswa ekhaya.
Njengoba abathengi abaningi beqaphela imiphumela eyingozi yemikhuba yamanje yokudaya, ubuchwepheshe obusha benza indlela yokudaya engabizi kakhulu, eyonga izinsiza kanye neqhubekayo.Ukuqamba okusha kubuchwepheshe bokudaya kusuka ekwelapheni kwangaphambili ukotini, ukufakwa kodayi okucindezelwe we-CO2, ngisho nokudala izibala zemvelo ezivela kumagciwane.Izindlela ezintsha zokudaya zamanje zingasiza ekunciphiseni ukusetshenziswa kwamanzi, esikhundleni sezenzo ezimoshayo kusetshenziswe ezisebenza kahle nezingabizi kakhulu futhi sizame ukuguqula ngokuphelele indlela esenza ngayo izimibalabala ezinikeza izingubo zethu imibala emihle esiyithandayo.
Ubuchwepheshe obungenamanzi bokudaya okusimeme
Inqubo yokudaya yezindwangu iyahlukahluka kuye ngohlobo lwendwangu.Ukudaya kukakotini kuyinqubo ende futhi eningi edinga amanzi nokushisa, ngenxa yesimo esingesihle semicu kakotini.Lokhu kusho ukuthi ngokuvamile ukotini uthatha cishe amaphesenti angama-75 kuphela odayi osetshenziswayo.Ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukuthi umbala ubambekile, indwangu edayiwe noma intambo iyawashwa futhi ifudunyezwe ngokuphindaphindiwe, ikhiqize amanzi angcolile amaningi.I-ColourZen isebenzisa ubuchwepheshe obunelungelo lobunikazi obuphatha ukotini kusengaphambili ngaphambi kokuba uphothwe.Lokhu kwelashwa kusengaphambili kwenza inqubo yokudaya isheshe, kunciphisa ukusetshenziswa kwamanzi ngama-90%, amandla anciphe ngo-75% kanye namakhemikhali angaphansi ngama-90% abengadingeka ukudaya ukotini ngempumelelo.
Ukudaya imicu yokwenziwa, njenge-polyester, kuyinqubo emfushane futhi 99% noma ngaphezulu ukulungiswa kodayi (99% kadayi osetshenziswayo uthathwa yindwangu).Nokho, lokhu akusho ukuthi izinqubo zamanje zokudaya zizinzile.I-AirDye isebenzisa odayi abahlakazekile abafakwa esiphathini sephepha.Ngokushisa kuphela, i-AirDye idlulisela udayi ephepheni iye endaweni yendwangu.Le nqubo yokushisa okuphezulu ifaka umbala kudayi ezingeni lamangqamuzana.Iphepha elisetshenziswayo lingagaywa kabusha, bese kusetshenziswa amanzi angaphansi ngo-90%.Futhi, amandla amancane angama-85% asetshenziswa ngoba izindwangu azidingi ukucwiliswa emanzini futhi ukushisa kome ngokuphindaphindiwe.
I-DyeCoo isebenzisa i-CO₂ ukudaya izindwangu ngenqubo ye-loop evaliwe.“Uma icindezelwa, i-CO₂ iba supercritical (SC-CO₂).Kulesi simo i-CO₂ inamandla okuncibilikisa aphezulu kakhulu, okuvumela udayi ukuba uhlakazeke kalula.Ngenxa yokungeneka okuphezulu, odayi bathuthwa kalula futhi bajule bangene emiculweni, benze imibala egqamile.”I-DyeCoo ayidingi noma yimaphi amanzi, futhi basebenzisa odayi abamsulwa abamukelelwa ngama-98%.Inqubo yabo igwema odayi abaningi ngamakhemikhali anokhahlo futhi awekho amanzi angcolile adalekayo phakathi nenqubo.Bakwazile ukukhuphula lobu buchwepheshe futhi babe nokugunyazwa kwezentengiselwano kuzo zombili izigayo zendwangu kanye nabasebenzisi bokugcina.
Izingulube ezivela kumagciwane
Iningi lezingubo esizigqokayo namuhla zinemibala kusetshenziswa odayi bokwenziwa.Inkinga ngalokhu ukuthi izinto zokusetshenziswa ezibalulekile, njengowoyela ongahluziwe ziyadingeka ngesikhathi sokukhiqizwa kanti amakhemikhali anezelwa anobuthi emvelweni nasemizimbeni yethu.Nakuba odayi bemvelo bengenabo ubuthi obuncane kunodayi bokwenziwa, basadinga indawo yokulima nezibulala-zinambuzane ezitshalweni ezakha odayi.
Amalebhu emhlabeni wonke athola indlela entsha yokudala umbala wezingubo zethu: amagciwane.I-Streptomyces coelicolor i-microbe eshintsha ngokwemvelo umbala ngokusekelwe ku-pH yendawo ekhula ngaphakathi.Ngokushintsha indawo yayo, kungenzeka ukulawula ukuthi kuba luhlobo luni lombala.Inqubo yokudaya ngamabhaktheriya iqala ngokwenza i-autoclaving yendwangu ukuvimbela ukungcola, bese ithela uketshezi olugcwele izakhi ezibangelwa amagciwane phezu kwendwangu esitsheni.Khona-ke, indwangu ecwilisiwe ivezwa amagciwane futhi ishiywe ekamelweni elilawulwa yisimo sezulu izinsuku ezimbalwa.Ibhaktheriya “lidaya bukhoma” impahla, okusho ukuthi njengoba amagciwane ekhula, adayya izindwangu.Indwangu iyahlanzwa futhi ihlanzwe kahle ukuze igeze iphunga le-bacterial medium, bese iyeke ukuze yome.Odayi bamagciwane basebenzisa amanzi amancane kunodayi abavamile, futhi bangasetshenziswa ukudaya amaphethini amaningi ahlukene ngemibala ehlukahlukene.
I-Faber Future, ilebhu esekwe e-UK, isebenzisa i-synthetic biology ukuhlela amagciwane ukuze akhe uhla olukhulu lwemibala engasetshenziswa ukufaka imibala yokwenziwa kanye nemicu yemvelo (okuhlanganisa ukotini).
I-Living Color iphrojekthi ye-biodesign esekelwe e-Netherlands ehlola namathuba okusebenzisa amagciwane akhiqiza umbala ukuze afake imibala engutsheni yethu.Ngo-2020, i-Living Color kanye ne-PUMA bahlangana ukuze bakhe iqoqo lezemidlalo elidayiwe ngebhaktheriya lokuqala.
Ukuqala kokudaya okusimeme ku-ecosystem yethu
I-Plug and Play isesha ngenkuthalo ubuchwepheshe obusha obusiza ukushayela ushintsho oludingeka kakhulu embonini yokudaya.Sixhumanisa iziqalo ezintsha nenethiwekhi yethu ebanzi yozakwethu bezinkampani, abeluleki, nabatshalizimali.
Bheka ezinye zezintandokazi zethu:
I-Werewool ithatha ugqozi emvelweni ukukhiqiza izindwangu ezimibalabala ezivela kumaprotheni.Elinye lala maprotheni livela ku-Discosoma Coral ekhiqiza umbala ophinki ogqamile.I-DNA yaleli phrotheni ingakopishwa futhi ifakwe kubhaktheriya.Leli bhaktheriya lingabe selilukwa libe yifayibha ukwenza indwangu enemibala.
Thina i-aRe SpinDye sidaya izinto ezigaywe kabusha ezivela emabhodleleni amanzi angemva komthengi noma izingubo ezimoshiwe ngaphambi kokuba ziphothwe zibe yintambo.Ubuchwepheshe babo buncibilikisa umbala wemibala kanye ne-polyester egaywe kabusha ndawonye ngaphandle kokusebenzisa amanzi, okunciphisa ukusetshenziswa kwamanzi sekukonke ngo-75%.Ezindabeni zakamuva, i-H&M isebenzise inqubo yokudaya ye-We aRe SpinDye® eqoqweni labo le-Conscious Exclusive.
huue.yenza isimeme, i-indigo ye-biosynthetic eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka ehloselwe imboni ye-denim.Ubuchwepheshe babo abusebenzisi i-petroleum, i-cyanide, i-formaldehyde noma i-reduction agents.Lokhu kuqeda amanani amakhulu okungcoliswa kwamanzi.Esikhundleni sokusebenzisa amakhemikhali anobuthi, huue.isebenzisa ushukela ukwenza udayi.Basebenzisa ubuchwepheshe bobunikazi be-bioengineering ukuze bakhe amagciwane afana nenqubo yemvelo futhi adle ushukela ukuze akhiqize udayi nge-enzymatic.
Sisenomsebenzi okufanele siwenze
Ukuze iziqalo ezishiwo kanye nobuchwepheshe buchume futhi bufinyelele ezingeni lezohwebo, kubalulekile ukuthi siqhube ukutshalwa kwezimali nobudlelwano phakathi kwalezi zinkampani ezincane, kanye nezinkampani ezinkulu ezikhona zemfashini namakhemikhali.
Akwenzeki ukuthi ubuchwepheshe obusha bube yizinketho ezisebenza kahle kwezomnotho ezizotholwa yizinkampani zemfashini ngaphandle kokutshalwa kwezimali kanye nobudlelwano.Ukusebenzisana phakathi kwe-Living Color ne-PUMA, noma i-SpinDye® kanye ne-H&M kuyimifelandawonye emibili nje kweziningi ezidingekayo okufanele ziqhubeke uma izinkampani zizibophezele ngokweqiniso ekushintsheni ezindleleni zokudaya ezisimeme ezilondoloza izinsiza eziyigugu futhi ziyeke ukungcolisa imvelo.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Mar-14-2022